Allure Of The Jewels

Biren Vaidya

Biren Vaidya revels in his revered patron base that has even the Ambanis and Hollywood glamour succumbing to the lure of his pieces. Running his coveted Rose salon in Mumbai amidst the melange of diamonds, rubies, sapphires and skilled craftsmanship in jadau, he rejoices in the love for jewels. Biren weaves a jewelled fairytale here by letting us peer into some of the most exquisite pieces that he has crafted over the decades with an Indian bride playing his eternal muse.

Of Sparkles and Baubles

Draped in cascades of rich silks and resplendent with fine jewels, an Indian bride is considered a portrait of beauty. A vision that has inspired poetry and have many ballads dedicated to it. Seeped in tradition, the adornments symbolize marital felicity. And the jewels seal the age old tradition of Shringar for the Indian bride.

Famed jeweller Biren Vaidya is the regular visitor to the altar of fine jewellery. Pieces swathed in his favourite stones are jewelled wonders, brimming with stories of bejewelled brides. This master jeweller has been chiselling out the perfect jewels ever since he took over the mantle from his sister in 1999.

Walk into his office at an unappointed hour and one can hear him locked in conversation with his gems. This master artist believes that each gem has a soul.

His interest in these bejewelled rushes became a full-fledged affair when he set eyes on a sparkling beauty- a large pear shaped diamond ring in his mother’s closet. The ring bore impeccable black enamelling at the back (the kind that wasdone by a British jewel house Hamilton, an art that had faded with time). It was the moment he discovered the mystery that lay behind each gem and his eternal love for jewels - the fire and passion of the ruby, the sparkling sapphires stunning crafted in the fine jewels of the emperors, diamonds that turn the ordinary into a work of art.

These visions took him into the alleys of Venice, which he  scoured for inspiration. Finally, he decided to infuse the beauty of murano glass in his diamond jewellery. Hence came his collection Murano Medallions.

Another collection of princely pins and antique jadau buttons for the Indian groom took inspiration from the decadent corridors of royalty. called Majestic Maharaval, this collection of jewelled sceptres was steeped in history.

A passion for innovation has inspired many of Biren’s collections. Here, Biren rips open his vaults and allows a quick peer into his favourite pieces for brides - with a bit of history and anecdotes to gape, gauge and spell out ‘gorgeous’. From the new maharajas to the avant-garde, these pieces speak volumes about why a wedding is a once in a lifetime occasion.

Empress of Rose

One of the biggest emeralds in the world, this gem remains the first to be christened by an Indian company. ‘Empress’ was found in a New York workshop as Biren was scouting for emeralds for his next creation. This 600 carat rock, rough from the mines, was already locked in negotiations. The spark was irresistible and a moment later, this master jeweller was lovelorn. The emerald was bought and it was decided that it be sculpted and polished into a teardrop of 290.25 carat (after polishing for about six months) before it was brought down to India to be turned into a necklace.

Adorning the centre of the universe of a demure bride, the necklace is beset with a bezel of soft diamonds that pay respect to their sovereign – the Emerald. Expert craftsmanship comes into play and one notices how the size of this giant rock is carefully veiled to adorn the neck of a petite bride. It is indeed a jewel that lives up to its royal name - EMPRESS.

Maharaja Ring

crockery to tapestries, this ring was dreamt up when Biren laid his eyes on a ruby he found in a workshop at a jewellery fair in Hong Kong. Priced exorbitantly, this 50 carat gem was written off from the buying list as a result of its price tag. And even though the gem drew him towards it, he decided to let go of it. Our master jeweller even laid a wager with the owner that no one will buy it for the price. Seven days passed and the ruby remained untouched until the last moment, when a jeweller picked it up. Biren lost the wager. It was he who had bought the exquisite gem.

For the next few months, it remained in his pocket while he envisioned different designs around it. It was finally decided that this gem be perfectly positioned like a crown on a pear shaped diamond, impeccably handcrafted to fit the petite fingers of a woman.

The ring now belongs to his wife - the most stunning bride in Biren’s eyes - gifted to her on the joyous occasion of their matrimony.

Seven Wonders

For the avant-garde bride, this collection is almost ethereal, brimming with symbolism of marital bliss. To be treasured in the vaults forever, this collection charts out the contours of a happy nuptial. These pieces cross the bridge of innovation and touch the realm of pure mastery. Each of these pieces is dedicated to the whim of the woman in the house.

The first piece, an original fan switch (that does work) in 18 karat gold with 3 sapphires and white diamonds, can double up as earrings. A door handle with a label - ‘handle with care’, encompassing the emotions of a woman, can turn into a bracelet with a carefully concealed lock. A terracotta lamp encrusted with fifteen rubies and diamonds named ‘light in my life’ magically transforms into a choker and a pair of earrings.

A fan regulator that can turn into a diamond and gold pendant and an art deco napkin ring that morphs into a 2 carat ring studded with a stunning black diamond, fill the bespoke line-up. The most defining piece called the centre of my universe (a photo frame studded with navratnas) represents the holy confluence of nine planets. The assortment of navratnas range from diamonds and emeralds to sapphires, pearls and corals.

A befitting tribute to the soul of a wedding celebration- the bride!

Biren Vaidya is one of the finest artisans and master jewellers the country can boast of. He runs his coveted Rose salon in Mumbai. Biren Vaidya, when not scouting the mines around the world for precious gems and dreaming up jewels in his mind, can be contacted at or through

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